Kenmore Dryer Error Codes F24 / F25: Inlet Thermistor and Heat-Protection Checks

Updated: February 2026

Kenmore dryer error codes F24 and F25 are commonly associated with the inlet temperature sensing circuit. The inlet thermistor (or a related temperature sensing component near the heater inlet) helps the dryer monitor heat input and keep temperatures within safe, effective limits. When the control sees a reading that is impossible, missing, or out of range, it may display F24/F25 and change how the dryer heats or stops the cycle.

Because heating problems and sensor problems overlap, a smart approach is to troubleshoot in a structured order: airflow first, then wiring, then sensor testing, then other heat-protection parts, and only then consider a control issue. This prevents wasted money on parts and helps keep your dryer safe.

What F24 / F25 typically mean

💡 Pro Tip: If the first approach does not work, wait at least 10 minutes before trying the next one.

These codes generally indicate the inlet thermistor circuit is behaving abnormally. Depending on your model, one code may correspond to an open circuit and the other to a short or out-of-range condition. In real-world terms, the dryer is not getting a believable inlet temperature signal and will often protect itself by limiting heat or stopping.

Symptoms that fit F24/F25

No heat, weak heat, or heat that cycles off too quickly.
Dry time increases sharply compared to normal.
Cycle ends early or stops mid-cycle with an error.
Temperature seems erratic, with clothes sometimes overdrying and sometimes staying damp.

Safety first

Disconnect power before opening any panel.
Let the dryer cool before touching heater housings, thermostats, or sensor mounts.
If you have a gas dryer, close the gas valve if you will work near the burner area.

Step 1: Fix airflow problems that can trigger heat stress

Restricted airflow makes dryers run hotter in the heater area and can damage sensors, connectors, and safety devices over time. Do these checks before you reach for a multimeter:

Clean the lint screen and remove lint from the lint chute area if accessible.
Inspect the vent hose behind the dryer for kinks, crushing, or loose joints.
Verify the exterior vent flap opens fully and has strong airflow.
If your vent run is long or has multiple elbows, plan a full vent cleaning.

Even if airflow is not the only cause, improving airflow reduces repeat failures after you replace any temperature-related component.

Step 2: Locate the inlet thermistor area

The inlet thermistor is generally positioned near the heater inlet path, often on or near the heater housing or a duct that feeds the heater. Many dryers place several heat-related parts together, such as thermostats and thermistors mounted to metal surfaces. Use your model number to confirm the exact location in a parts diagram if you are unsure.

Step 3: Inspect wiring and connectors carefully

Thermistor circuits are sensitive to loose connections. A connector that is slightly loose can test fine at rest but open during vibration or as the dryer warms up. Look for:

Loose spade terminals that slip off too easily.
Heat discoloration at terminals (brown or black staining).
Brittle insulation or melted plastic connector housings.
Wires pinched by a panel edge or rubbing a moving surface.

Repairing a damaged connector can be the difference between a permanent fix and a code that returns the next day.

Step 4: Test the thermistor for an obvious open or short

With power disconnected, remove the thermistor connector and measure resistance across the thermistor terminals. The value should be stable. What matters most is avoiding obvious failures:

An open reading (infinite resistance) strongly suggests a failed sensor or broken harness.
A near-zero reading suggests a shorted sensor or a short in the harness.
A reading that changes wildly when you gently wiggle the harness suggests a wiring fault.

If you find the dryer tech sheet, use its resistance chart for room temperature confirmation. That chart is the best way to avoid guessing based on generic numbers from other models.

Step 5: Check related heat-protection devices

On some Kenmore platforms, the inlet sensing function may be associated with a cluster that includes a high-limit thermostat or other heat-protection device. If the dryer overheats, a safety device may open and change heater behavior, which can cause the control to see unexpected temperature change and throw a sensor-related code.

Test thermostats and thermal cutoffs for continuity (with at least one wire removed from the part to prevent false readings through the circuit). If you find an open safety device, do not stop at replacing it. You must also fix the overheating cause, and restricted venting is the most common reason.

Step 6: Consider control or harness issues only after proving the basics

If airflow is strong, wiring is solid, and the thermistor and safety devices test correctly, the remaining suspects are an intermittent harness fault deeper in the cabinet or a control board input problem. Harness faults can hide in wire bundles and only show up when the dryer vibrates. A technician can perform live temperature and input diagnostics if you do not have the tools or experience to do it safely.

After repair: confirm stable heating

Run timed dry with heat for 15 minutes and confirm strong warm airflow at the outside vent.
Run an auto cycle with a normal load and confirm it completes without codes.
Monitor the first few loads for consistent dry time.

F24/F25 often become repeat problems when venting is neglected. Keeping airflow strong is the best long-term prevention for temperature-sensor and heat-protection failures.

Final Word: Understanding Kenmore Dryer Error Codes F24 / F25: Inlet Thermistor and Heat-Protection Checks comes down to knowing the fundamentals. This guide has equipped you with exactly that – use it as your go-to reference.

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